Part 2:Ten Tips for Stitching Caps

MIAMI - April 19, 2013 - PRLog -- We have discussed 6 out 10 tips for stitching caps in our previous artical. In this artical we will continue the rest tips.

Lesson Seven: Design Placement

• The side, back and top of the cap can be utilized to relocate elements of a logo that are too small to read. Scan in the arch of the keyhole to use as a template for digitizing.

•  Consider placing elements of the design side-by-side to allow a larger size for each and to minimize center-seam challenges.

• When possible, use the center seam as the start/finish point of a design. This will supply visual aid for consistent placement.

•  The sides of the cap are constructed at an angle, so tilt any design or lettering between 7 and 15 degrees. Stitching the sides flat, with a regular circular hoop, can help place side-stitching more accurately.

Lesson Eight: Hooping/Framing

• Hoop caps as tightly as possible to avoid flagging, which leads to birdnesting.

•  On 270-degree frames, offset the center of the cap slightly to the left. By clamping down and fastening the buckle, the cap will pull to the right and be centered.

• Clips tend to pull at the top, and can compromise the registration on tall designs. Keep them low by putting one clip near the bottom of the design area and none at the top, and take care not to stretch the top of the cap while hooping as to avoid distortion.

• Hoop caps straight. The canvas is small; being off by even a fraction can produce a crooked design that will ruin a cap.

• Consider using a regular hoop for unstructured caps, such as a 10" round hoop and a firm tearaway with adhesive, pressure-sensitive or water-activated backing. Place the curve of the visor against the curve of the inner hoop and smooth the cap’s crown onto the backing. With the back of the cap facing out, set the hoop on the machine and slide another piece of tearaway under the backing. Don’t forget to rotate the design.

Lesson Nine: Digitizing Tips

• Stitching “rolls” the cap. Keep this in mind when digitizing. Inside-out and bottom-up prevents bulging at the visor seam and bubbles under the design.

• Marry the cap front to the backing with underlay that is the same color of the cap under the entire design area to stabilize it for embroidery.

• Use a series of small (1mm) stitches at the beginning of the design to anchor the thread. These stitches can also mark the center.

• Outline each letter while punching to improve registration. Stitch the fills first and then the outline on each letter.

• Low-profile caps reduce the sewing area, so measure 5/8" from the bill and 3/8" from any air holes (or where they would be) to delineate the canvas.

• Center-seam caps are very popular and can be neutralized by a zigzag of underlay. A piece of thin craft foam or cutaway backing can be stitched under that underlay to erase any visual division in the design.

• Keep satins at less than 1/4", and use split satins for wide columns or areas. Consider two columns, side by side in a wide area, with a jagged edge on the joining side.

• Shorter fill stitches help prevent puckering. Fills should be zero or 90 degrees (horizontal or vertical). At other angles, fills may push the cap and cause registration problems.

Lesson Ten: Cap Fabric

• “Wales” are the peaks and valleys found in corduroy fabric. When working with corduroy, use an all-over underlay that matches the color of the cap and gives a smooth surface for embroidery and place small lettering on top of a fill.

•  When stitching Flexfit caps, remember that embroidery stitches erase stretch. Try hooping with just the amount of stretch that will be present when worn. Beware multiple placements around the crown that can ruin the flex, and thus the fit, of the cap. Snip the thread on a Flexfit cap and fold it facing down for easier embroidery. • • Poplin and twill are also popular cap fabrics. Twill is coarser, with parallel diagonal ribs, which creates a sawtooth look most evident in satin stitches. A walking stitch underlay along the edges of columns can fight these uneven edges. Use wider columns and try topping. Also try using a .12mm ragged edge on columns, which will keep the edge from following the ridges (or grain) in the twill. Poplin, which has finer ridges, is a stable, tightly woven fabric and allows for smoother sewing.

• Wool fabrics are embroidery-friendly; the rich look of a wool six-panel cap can command a higher price.

•  Lightweight fabrics such as taslon and nylon crease easily and, unless they are backed, can shift when hooped and compromise registration. Smooth these caps as tightly as possible when hooping.

• Poly-foam caps tend to pucker and stretch and, unless they, too, have a backing, may rain residue into the bobbin area. Cotton twills/poplin backed with foam are less of a nightmare and produce better results—but better to leave foam caps to other decorating processes.

• To finish a cap, place a damp cloth over cap fronts and use a cap press at a light setting to remove topping.

You’re ready!

For more information, please contact us via

Email: info@ricoma.us

Toll free: 1-888-292-6282 (USA and Canada)

Tel: 305-418-4421 (International)

Or visit us online at www.ricoma.us.

RiCOMA International Corporation

3450 NW 114 Avenue, Miami, FL 33178

RiCOMA Leading the Way with Innovative Technology