Ten Tips for Stitching Caps: Part 1

MIAMI - April 19, 2013 - PRLog -- When is a hat, not a hat? When it’s a cap. A hat has a full brim all the way around; a cap has a bill in the front. The cap is a true fashion phenomenon—it is worn by male and female in every walk of life. But, remember, the cap is only complete with a message, and this is where the world of embroidery enters.

Here are some thoughts on preparing and stitching that might make you welcome a healthy order of decorated headwear.

Lesson One: The Machine

• Regular check-ups and preventive maintenance are important.

• Clean the bobbin area often. Look for thread build-up around the shaft that will cause the needle to get too close to the point of the hook.

• Make sure your bobbin case is in perfect condition and that bobbins are round. Removing the backlash spring can improve sewing; its purpose is to prevent over-spin of metal bobbins. (This is unnecessary with ready-made bobbins.)

• Tighten all screws on the cap sash. There are recessed screws that can only be seen when the sash is centered—these must be tightened down.  Use a raised needle plate when stitching caps.

Lesson Two: Cap Frames/Hoops

• Cap frames are adjustable. You can tighten and loosen the screws on 270-degree frames to hold the cap material tight. Check these often to prevent loss of registration (and loss of the screws).

• Store cap frames safely. Never place them on top of one another and do not rest other items on top of them.

Lesson Three: The Right Cap

• Help customers choose caps that fit your machine and fill their needs. Get cap samples—deconstruct and fit the visor’s curve to your cap gauge.

•  A gap in the center can result in flagging, while gaps on the sides can lead to registration/stitching problems.

Lesson Four: Cap Preparation

• Use a cap heat press before embroidering to smooth the cap and flatten any middle seam. This also helps the cap fit more smoothly on the frame.

•  Heat also removes the fabric’s finish and softens the cap, which opens the weave, and allows the needle to pass through without deflection. This helps control thread and needle breaks. No cap press? Try using a steamer or steam iron to soften the front seam and the surface.

Lesson Five: Needles and thread

• An 80/12 sharp is a good standard option. If lettering or detail is quite small, a 75/11 or a 70/10 works well. Also, remember to change needles often, as the buckram on caps dulls needles quickly.

•  A Teflon needle can reduce residue formed by the heat of stitching, especially through buckram.

• A reinforced needle can prevent upper threads from rubbing against the center seam, which can result in thread breaks.

• A needle too large for the job can cause missing stitches.

• Check the thread path and make sure that all guides are threaded. One miss can make a mess.

• Thread breaks decrease when using high-quality rayon or polyester thread. Polyester thread is impervious to air, water and salt (in sweat). The strength of polyester can handle extra layers of caps and backings.

• Start with a full bobbin. Cotton bobbin thread used with small lettering and details creates crisp details and legibility, as it does not stretch and holds stitches tightly. Be aware that bobbin thread is looser when sewing caps because a longer piece of bobbin thread is needed to reach that raised cap. Fuse a piece of backing to the cap to add a layer to help the bobbin reach.

• When choosing metallic threads, larger spools create less twists and loops. If smaller spools must be used, thread them through a small hole in a foam cup placed down over the spool. Or, place them horizontally farther away from the machine/needle. This can straighten the thread and improve stitch quality.

Lesson Six: Backing

• Hoop the backing with the cap.

• Slide a piece of bond paper under the cap to prevent residue from raining into the hook area. Consider a piece of waxed paper and gain the advantage of lubricating the cap against the throat plate and needle as it penetrates the fabric. The wax will also keep needles from getting as hot, preventing blockage of the eye.

• Unstructured caps demand heavier backing. A light spray of adhesive can help hold this backing to the cap.

•  If trouble develops when stitching caps, slide another piece of backing between the cap assembly and the throat plate. Sometimes an imperceptible gap can be filled this way and stitching will improve.

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