Pavlovo Posad - Russian scarves and shawls - From roots to nowadays by Russian Handbags

Sept. 19, 2012 - PRLog -- Theirs fabrication was arranged by merchants Ya.I. Labzin and V.I. Gryaznov in the early 60ths of XIX century, after a half of century since the foundation of the firm.

That time in the uyezd of Bogorodsk of the Moscow province, to which Pavlovskiy Posad historically was included, numbered over 70 silk shawl factories owned by peasants. Among them there was a silk factory, founded in 1795, of the peasant Ivan Dmitriyevich Labzin from the village of Pavlovo (or Vokhna). However similar enterprises were named factories only in official terminology, but mostly they represented weaving attics where a manual labour was used. The factory of a Pavlovo peasant Labzin was not the exception – in it worked around ten free hired women workers producing silk kerchiefs of “medium quality” and of “bad goodness”.

The firm year in, year out advanced, grew rich. With it, from generation to generation, the owners Labzins also grew rich. However still a long time they remained in the peasant estate, only Ivan Labzin’s grandsons because of the necessity to do business “round various towns” passed into the merchants. By the middle of the XIX century the firm passed to his great-grandson Yakov Labzin, who together with the companion Vasiliy Gryaznov redirected the factory to issue woolen shawls with printed design.

By that time the shawl firmly came to the life of various sections of the Russian society, at first nobility, and then merchants and peasants. On a particularly large scale the shawls were diffused since the middle of XIX century when on many textile mills and factories were set going the manufacturing of shawls and kerchiefs decorated with a printed pattern, which were cheaper as compared with woven ones. The companions had to work in conditions of a strict competition, because production demanded at that time were issued at many factories, the most mighty from these were concentrated in Moscow and Vladimir provinces. Nevertheless the merchants from a small near-Moscow town, due to their talent and vigour, managed not only to stand, but also to occupy a particular place on the trade spaciousness of the Russian Empire.

The fact that among the workers of the factory in 1861 were printers, engravers, poker-workers, 2 colourists, and even 3 graphic artists, Ivan Ivanovich (Ivanov), Michail Ilyich (Sudin), Ivan Vasilievich Sorokin, is evidence of complete assimilation of a new production at the Labzin-Gryaznov’s company by the early 1860s.

About successes of a new production points the small silver medal, won for “a good weaving and printing of muslin-de-ligne e shawls” at the Moscow fair of Russian manufactured products in 1865.

The earliest from the presently existing Pavlovo Posad shawls date from 1870s. Their belonging may be exactly determined by the presence of marks (brands) on the reverse side of the shawl where is indicated the firm and the time of production.

V.I. Gryaznov died in 1869, but until the October revolution the factory always was headed by representatives of Labzins’ and Gryaznovs’ families.

The 1870-1880s may be characterized as heydays of the shawl manufactory. In 1861 Yakov Labzin was appointed a title of supplier of Her Majesty Great Princess Alexandra Petrovna “with the right to have a monogram of the name of Her Imperial Highness on signboard”. In 1870 and 1882 the company was awarded with silver medals of All-Russian art and industrial fairs.

In the second half of 1880s begins the process of a distinctive democratization of the Pavlovo Posad shawls. Shawls are widely diffused not only among nobles and merchants, but gain popularity among petty bourgeois and prosperous peasants.

In the beginning of the XX century “Ya. Labzins’s and V. Gryaznov’s association of manufactories” where 2000 people worked, was the largest in Russia among ones issuing woolen shawls and kerchiefs. Storehouses of the goods were in Moscow, Khar’kov, Omsk, Romny, Uryupinsk, at the Nizhniy Novgorod and Irbit fairs. The property of the association, including the cost of materials and goods, was appreciated as more than 4,300,000 roubles.

After the revolution the Labzins’-Gryaznovs’ firm was nationalized and became be named Staro-Pavlovskaya (Old-Pavlovo) factory. In first decades because of the shortage of raw materials the main products were of cotton. Those years woolen shawls were made mostly after old pre-revolutionary samples.

By the middle of 1920s in the factory were realized attempts to introduce new tendencies in shawls decorating. An interesting experience to arrange design with stylized images of animals appeared (the shawl “Leopards”), designs on subjects of revolution, industrialization and collectivization of the country became widely diffused. But the leading place among Pavlovo Posad products was as before occupied by the shawls with traditional flower ornament. This artistic tendency had the most impressive embodiment in the creative works of N.S. Postigov, N.I. Chudin, K.Ye. Abolikhin. The names of these artists became a legend, and their works is the “classics” of the Pavlovo Posad shawl art.

In 1928 united Staro-Pavlovskaya and Lenskaya factories take part in the1st fair of artistic textile in Moscow. In the catalogue of the fair among the products of the factory are mentioned woolen and semi-woolen, printed and dyed shawls, with and without ground colours, with silk and wool fringes. In 1937 for the World art and industrial fair in Paris the collective of the factory prepared more than 600 items: shawls, bedspreads, table-cloths, panels ecc.

The Great Patriotic War detained a revealed growth – the factory passed to production of fabrics for uniform of Red Army. However by early 1950s at the factory was begun the issuing of printed shawls of pure wool.

After the Great Patriotic War the printing production had to be restored. In early 1950s printed shawls of pure wool were began produced again. That time to the factory came artists whose works in many respects determined development of Pavlovo Posad shawl for the following decades. After war came back here Yevgeniy Ivanovich Shtykhin. In 1945 after Ivanovo chemico-technological college began working here Yekaterina Petrovna Regunova. In 1950 in connection with passing of printing production from Lenskaya factory were transferred Zlata Aleksandrovna Olshevskaya and Lidiya Sergeyevna Shakhovskaya.

Among with the creation of new shawl compositions in 1960-1960s at the factory were being printed old designs, but with new colour variants, with grounds of very various colorations: “crimson, claret, golden, light green, turquoise, violet” and others.

The products of the factory was exposed many times at numerous home and foreign fairs. In 1958 at the world fair in Brussels Pavlovo Posad shawls were awarded by Great gold metal.



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