Ladakh : Road Rules Make my Trip

Dec. 30, 2010 - PRLog -- At long last, holidaying in your dream destination – Ladakh, in the mighty Himalayas – is about to become a reality. The easy way to get there is to fly into Leh, a 45-minute hop from New Delhi and about as exciting as a trip to the grocery. The other option is to hit the highway – a round trip from Delhi will take you about 10 days if you’re not in a hurry. There are other worthwhile reasons for road travel. Crossing three states – Haryana, Punjab and Himachal Pradesh – you’ll treat yourself to spectacular landscapes, diverse cultures and cuisine. Needless to say,  a road trip to this forbiddingly beautiful region requires a strong back and plenty of staying power. The advantage is that it helps your body to acclimatise gradually to the tremendous altitude and corresponding decrease in oxygen; air travel, which takes you from the warm plains to Leh’s rarefied atmosphere in next to no time could leave you hotel bound and miserable with mountain sickness for most of your trip. If you must save time, one option while planning your journey is to fly back from Leh.

Of the two road routes to Ladakh, the Delhi-Chandigarh-Kulu-Manali-Leh route is the more popular. Theother being via Srinagar and Kargil,

Getting There

The 250-plus kms from Delhi to Chandigarh, on the historic Grand Trunk Road whiz by like a breeze, thanks to the good roads and variety of pit stops en route. From Punjab to the border of Himachal Pradesh, the road zips through endless mustard fields – a landscape that’s inspired countless Bollywood love stories. Treat yourself to a dhaba meal – sarson ka saag and hot, fresh parathas with gobs of white butter allwashed down with huge glasses of creamy lassi.

Mandi is your next big town, lying picture pretty on the banks of the River Beas, about 145 km north of Himachal Pradesh’s capital, Shimla. At an elevation of 750 mts, the air is already cool and fresh. This is Shiva territory, with innumerable temples dedicated to the dreadlocked Destroyer of the Universe. Pay your respects to Him at the Panchavaktra Temple and Ardhanareshwar Temple.

Pushing ahead to Manali, the road winds along the Beas – a lovely sight that, alas, cannot be enjoyed to the fullest as you must keep your eyes peeled for speeding tourist buses. You know Manali is approaching when apple orchards appear on both sides of the road, along with hotels galore.

Best known today as a picturesque honeymoon destination and trekkers’ town, Manali derives its name from Manu the lawgiver and is the birthplace of the Saptarishi (seven sages). Modern Manali seems to have forgotten its sacred past and has gone aggressively commercial. The Mall or main thoroughfare, where colonial gentry once dallied in pleasant summers, is now a crush of shoppers and vehicles but everyone ‘adjusts’ quite cheerfully, in true Indian fashion. Manali is also where biking enthusiasts rent a machine for the final stretch to Leh. The influx of both foreign and domestic visitors into Manali means that you can eat your way through a host of cuisines – from roast lamb with mint sauce to Tibetan noodle soups, pizzas and desi samosas.

Driving past Vashist (about 30 km outside Manali), you have your first glimpse of gleaming white peaks in the distance, an ‘Aha!’ moment for those who’ve only seen snow in the movies. As the road ascends the landscape changes. Stately deodhars, tiny hamlets and wildflower spattered slopes give way to grasslands and snow-streaked brown mountains. You are on your way to negotiating the world’s highest motorable passes!

The Border Roads Organisation maintains the Manali- Leh road between June and September. The long drive ahead is a test of endurance. Apart from physical fitness, dollops of patience, a sense of humour and a bottle of rum will come in handy in the icy reaches of the Himalayas. In summer, the road out of Manali has traffic jams that rival Delhi’s gridlocks. Going higher, heavy rains can wash away parts of the narrow road, which means vehicles must struggle through slushy bends. Up in the snowbound passes, a truck breakdown ahead of you could mean getting stuck for hours on end. Nothing though, can take away the sense of awe and wonder that fills your being at every turn.

Next halt, Rohtang Pass. At 13,051 ft, this icy plateau in summer is a bustling – and alas, dirty – pit stop with vendors dishing out hot tea and Maggi noodles to tired, cold travellers. A miniscule cup of tea costs Rs 10, but no one complains. If you’re up to it, get photographed with a yak!

Past Khoksar village, you can see streams of water glittering down the mountains and merging with the Bhaga River – a real time geography lesson on river formation. The eye-watering blue of the river helps somewhat in enduring the bumpy stretches of road. Your last fuel stop in Himachal Pradesh is Tandi – 372 km more to Leh!

Keylong is where most travellers halt for the night. There are comfortable hotels and if you decide to leave early next morning, you can get yourself a packed breakfast.

Jispa is a nice stop for photo-ops. Going up, the road is relatively smooth, though you are likely to encounter plenty of trucks belching out smoke as they lumber uphill. Soon, you are driving through walls of snow. The air thins; this is where mountain sickness typically sets in with a dull headache. Cross Baralacha (16,500 ft) and keep going to Sarchu. The 112 kilometres from Keylong seems endless, more so thanks to the narrow, often broken road.

After a brief halt at Sarchu for warming up, it’s a bumpy ride up to the Gata loops, twenty-one bends that climb steeply to Naki La Pass at 15,547 ft. Going higher, cross Lachulung La at 16,616 ft and on to Pang. Twenty minutes out of Pang are the Morey Plains – an astonishing expanse of flat land at 15,400 feet that’s hugely popular with bikers. Two hours later, the road ascends again towards Tanglang La (17,582 ft), the world’s second highest pass – between the cold, your incessantly throbbing head and the awesome vistas of snow and ice, this long, last haul stretches you in every which way possible. Closer to the pass, herds of sheep and yaks can be seen grazing in pastures. On to Rumtse, Upshi and then journey’s end at Leh.  The home run is thankfully smooth.

Some Advice

Sunblock lotion and dark glasses are must-haves to protect your skin and eyes from the sharp rays of the sun. Bottled oxygen in portable cans is a good idea if you’re diffident about breathing in the rarefied atmosphere. Also load up with snacks, fruit, chocolates and bottled water.

A four-wheel drive or other vehicle with high ground clearance is ideal for tackling harsh, difficult terrains. Don’t let Murphy’s Law trip you up – a thorough vehicle check before setting off is mandatory.

Among once-in-a-lifetime travel tales, few places match up to the Ladakh experience. Ready to write your own script?

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