How to Grow a Healthy Lawn

Gardening expert, Ron Wilson gives advice on growing a healthy lawn including how to water, control insects, and disease
By: Ron Wilson, Natorp's Garden Stores and Landscape
 
June 9, 2009 - PRLog -- How to Grow a Healthy Lawn
Contributed By Ron Wilson | Natorp's

“A thick healthy lawn means fewer weeds, fewer insects, and fewer diseases.” Sounds pretty easy, right? But in our area, maintaining a thick healthy lawn can sometimes be very frustrating. So here are a few quick “general” tips to help you keep your lawn looking its best:

Types of grasses -The majority of our lawns are cool season grasses - bluegrass, perennial rye, fine fescue, and tall fescue. And there really is no one “best” grass for us, although the tall fescues are becoming more and more popular. We do recommend a ‘mix’ or ‘blend’ rather than one species of grass by itself. Look for bluegrass / perennial rye / fine fescue mixes, bluegrass or rye blends, and tall fescue blends.

Feeding the lawn – Each species of grass will require different levels of fertilization. The two most important feeding for all of cool season grasses will be in the fall (September and again mid to late November) using a high nitrogen fertilizer. These two applications are generally all the tall fescues need for the year (although a mid to late spring feeding may be added). Bluegrass and ryes generally require additional feeding (more nitrogen), and can take place April thru mid to late June. In some cases, additional feeding may be needed based on soil types, rainfall, weather conditions, etc.

Watering the lawn – As a general rule, the lawn would like 1 inch of rainfall every 10 days or so for optimum growing conditions. If supplemental watering is needed, do it all at once (two times max). Less frequent watering – deep and thorough each time - promotes deeper root systems. You should water your lawn between the hours of 5am and 9am or late afternoon allowing time for the turf to dry before nightfall.

Mowing the lawn – Always mow the turf higher, rather than lower. Longer grass blades equal less turf stress, more blade for photosynthesis, shading of the soil, and promotion of a deeper root system. For bluegrass, ryes and fine fescues, try 2 ½ to 3 inches - tall fescues, try 2 ½ to 3 ½ inches. Mow on a regular basis, when the lawn needs it - not just when you’re available. Try to mow when the lawn is dry, never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade each time you mow, throw those clippings back into the turf, and change directions each time you mow. And by all means, have that mower blade sharpened on a regular basis.

Insects and diseases in the lawn – Although your lawn can experience insect and disease problems, let’s go back to the “healthier lawn” theory. If you think there is an insect / disease problem, bring in grass samples and let our garden pros determine the problem and possible fixes.

To learn more about taking care of your lawn visit http://www.natorp.com, for more great tips on taking care of your lawn.

# # #

About Natorp"s
Natorp's Garden Stores and Landscaping has been providing beatiful yards and garden for over ninety years. The company also grows over one million plants on over four hundre acres and has developed a reputationf for great quality and service. For more information, visit www.natorp.com.
End
Source:Ron Wilson, Natorp's Garden Stores and Landscape
Email:***@natorp.com
Zip:45040
Tags:Lawn, Lawn Maintenance, Watering Lawn, Insects In Lawn, Disease Lawn, Types Of Grasses, Mowing Lawn, Feeding Lawn
Industry:Gardening
Location:Mason - Ohio - United States
Account Email Address Verified     Disclaimer     Report Abuse



Like PRLog?
9K2K1K
Click to Share