Vibrant Vietnam: From tragic wars to ancient wonder in undiscovered South East Asia

HANOI, Viet Nam - July 1, 2013 - PRLog -- Suffice to say as the years zipped by I have long felt a pull to probe deeper into this ancient land beyond its stock cinematic jungles and Hollywood special effects.

As South East Asia has been put on the map for tourists, more people than ever have been heading to explore this collection of countries jutting into the South China Sea. But Vietnam itself has never before had direct flights from Britain, meaning it has struggled to compete with the likes of wealthy neighbour Thailand. Until now.

A new service from Vietnam Airlines aims to change all that  with a direct and, in principle at least, hassle-free flight. It is hoped Vietnam will become a destination in itself, rather than just an extension of a jaunt around South East Asia.

My tour company (saintly patient to my endless questions and amenable to my travel whims in equal measure) has put together an itinerary - complete with local tour guides - that encompasses the best historical sights the country has to offer.

I have heard of some of these timeworn hotspots from far flung A-level history classes - others simply conjure up images of exotic wonder. I put my trust in their hands - but I don't let them off so easily. 'Erm, please try and add a couple of nice beaches too...' I sheepishly plead before ringing off.

After a sleepless 12-hour flight to the northern capital Hanoi, I am instantly disappointed to arrive in what feels more like south-east England than South-East Asia - it's drizzly, grey and knee-knockingly cold.

After washing up, I am picked up from my hotel by my guide and whisked off to the imposing Temple of Literature. The former university casts a light on the country’s strong intellectual and cultural traditions. Miraculously, much of the venerable building survived the brutal American bombing campaign which flattened vast swathes of Hanoi.

Towards the end of my tour I am ushered into an incense-perfumed religious room where shut-eyed worshippers pray silently by the garlanded Buddha - a fascinating sight to behold.

From there I hop in a taxi to something altogether different - Hoa Lao prison. The French built jail – AKA the Hanoi Hilton – was constructed to hold fin de siècle locals who dared speak out against colonial rule.

In later years it housed downed American pilots, including the former US presidential candidate John McCain. It is a chilling tour – the numerous shackled and lifelike mannequins only added to the morbidity - but each cell provides an extraordinary glimpse into the country’s troubled past.

I am soon in search of something a tad more uplifting and I find it the following day on a delightful overnight cruise in Halong Bay. The departure point is a four-hour drive from my Hanoi hotel and having embarked on the junk (with all tourist mod-cons safely built in) my small tour group sets sail past endless, dramatic jagged rocks-formations.

There are no shortage of these traditional ships setting sail daily and although my tour company has reserved my ticket before I jet out to Asia - it is straight-forward to book transport and a boat berth from most Hanoi hotels.

Our erudite guide Phuong is on hand to teach us all about the local history – both legend and natural – as our delightful wooden boat glides silently on the clear, sparkling waters. We even hop off for a bracing swim at the right moment. A real delight!  

Jetting down to the coastal city of Danang, more history is on the cards. A short internal flight proves Vietnam has wasted no time in catching up with Asia's budget air travel revolution. Whereas relatively recently tourists would need a visa for each state within the country, no such restriction exists these days once you arrive in the country.

A couple of high-spirited Australians I'm sat next to waste no time in gloating about the cheap online price ('Think Easyjet without the Orange!') they have paid just a day in advance for their internal air ticket.

Danang is just an hour's flight south from Hanoi, halfway down the country's eastern seaboard. But what a difference!

Hauling myself away from the pretty white sand beach, I make for the extraordinary 1,700-year-old My Son temple complex at Hoi An. The Hindu site, replete with ten-foot high towers dedicated to the gods, is stunning. I am careful to watch my step as I weave between the intricately carved statues. The whopping B-52 bomb craters that criss-cross the ruins are a sobering reminder of the conflicts that threatened Vietnam in the 21st Century.

A thirty minute drive away lies the town of Hoi An - an altogether different affair. This sleepy place used to be an important commercial centre for international traders and although it now caters more for the tourist pocket, the enterprising spirit lives on.

Accompanied once more by my indispensable local guide, we have a nose around on our rented bicycles. It feels like a working museum – local shopkeepers potter around their stalls and shop fronts as visitors pour over attractive trinkets and local souvenirs. (Don't forget to barter)

Another short hour-long flight and I arrive in the country's eastern tip at Nha Trang. It is a love-it-or-hate-it sort of place. High rise blocks mix uneasily with slightly shabby looking hotels. That said, the beach is rather lovely and I finally have the chance to catch up on some shameless bronzing and relaxing holiday reading.

For those with pockets deep enough, sumptuous new resorts - like the nearby Six Senses (only accessible by private speedboat, naturally darling) - are on hand and are fast becoming the new home-from-home du jour for the jet set.

I finish off my Vietnam odyssey in sweltering Ho Chi Minh City, still affectionately known by its old name of Saigon.

The traffic is wild and seems to defy all human logic. I audibly yelp crossing the road for the first time as the hoards of scooters whizz by missing me by mere inches.

But once I’ve got to grips with the place, it is glorious fun. I even make it to a nightclub, where glammed up, Jack Daniels sipping locals dance to all the latest American and Euro beats until the sun comes up. Hardly what you would expect from a Communist state.

For a final spot of history, I drive an hour to the Cu Chi Tunnels on the outskirts of the city. Cu Chi is an extraordinary network of burrows and bunkers used by Vietcong fighters to shelter from bombing raids and outfox the enemy.

The mantra for those hiding out was 'speak without words, walk without footprints and cook without smoke'. On my guided tour I am taught the ingenious methods used to do all these things which so successfully helped them avoid detection.

It is distressing at times but little short of astonishing and a far cry from those action-packed video games of my youth.

Travel Facts
We travelled to Vietnam on a tailor-made itinerary by long-haul operator Luxury Travel (www.luxuryprivatetravel.com), which specialises in creating bespoke tours and multi-centre packages in Vietnam.