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The eastern influence in Manish Arora's Spring 2013 collection made a strong case in a vase of macaroon shades. Pistachio, rose, menthe, raspberry & lavender sheer tights under kurta tops, punjabi-style dresses, nehru coats & harem pants, all ornamented by lavish headpieces.
Literally putting the 'edge' in boxy silhouettes, Balenciaga displayed squarish cropped tops and sharp-cornered skirts in eggshell blue, black, caramel and lemon wedge. Balancing out the angular cut jackets and suits were cascading ruffled skirts and leaf-motif cocktail dresses.
The eighties influenced Roland Mouret's SS13 offering with 'power dressing' as the policy line. Blinding orange, plum and fern green coloured up the black, white, cream and gold palette. Skillful origami folding on duo-tone dresses, cut-out shirt collars, molten leather, the overstated shoulder and complex draped peplums formulated this ultra chic collection.
The exaggerated 90's shoulder pad and high-waisted tapered pants make a comeback with Balmain's Spring 2013 range. Olivier Rousteing made optimal usage of strong, bold shapes in black and white diamond print, basket weaves, silver crystal beading, denim and leather.
Dries van Noten
Grunge and plaid are glamorized in the most sophisticated sense by Dries van Noten for Spring 13. The imaginative designer artfully mixes sheer chiffon checks with textured florals, ruffled organza & crepe de chine suits with a hint of metallic. Luxe dressing gowns, peplum tops, shorts & slip dresses were seen in a sweep of navy, maroon, turquoise, peach and mint.
Vampish romance set the tone at Nina Ricci with a slew of sexy navy, aqua, pink and blush satin & chiffon slip dresses, which are enhanced by metallic silk fringing & polka netted tulle.
Ann exhibited the power of poetry in motion with long, leisurely shapes that floated across the runway - not in a flimsy feminine manner, but instead with the statue of a warrior woman. Violet, black and ivory silk gowns clasped by leather harness belts made a strong statement, with fluttering chiffon wings trailing behind them.
A burgundy, beige and blue parade of neatly cut-out safari coats and collared frocks set the Carven showing off to an eminent start, followed by quirky outdoor prints, cropped sweaters, flaired skirts, and a host of orange-soaked looks, all in leather, linen and laser-cut lace.
Inadvertent sexiness at Lanvin was demonstrated by deconstructing classic silhouettes, asymmetric tailoring, strong-shouldered suits, metallic mosaic jumpsuits and numerous takes on the little black dress. An eye-catching set of satin shift dresses in jewel tones closed Alber Elbaz's dynamic 10th anniversary show.