heap jewelry may seem like a contradiction in terms but it should come as no
surprise that as customer's wish to follow prevailing style, people can spend big
money on cheaper jewelry. Cheap meaning made with inexpensive materials and lower
workmanship than regular quality jewelry pieces. Yet, the value of improperly made
or cheaply made jewelry is significantly lower than quality items. Some would call
them reproductions, or inexpensive, in a manner of speaking , but as this lower
priced market expands, consumers will find problems in both the investment value of
such pieces and in the health problems they may face.
Jewelry can be created with non-precious materials, such as gold plated silver.
Sterling silver with a rhodium plate of a couple of microns can give it that pure
white look. White gold goes through a similar process to turn it from a slight
yellow to bright white, so rhodium plated silver looks just like white gold all
things considered. The only thing that silver lacks is the heft, or dense weight, of
white gold and platinum. Sterling silver may also be plated with yellow gold to make
it look like gold. This metal is called vermeil and even though the gold layer is
not more than 4 microns thick it still has that lustrous yellow look like real
yellow gold. Other metals used to make cheap jewelry include stainless steel,
pewter, and other base metals. These alloys take well to polishing and buffing with
a finished look very close to white and yellow gold. The other element that gives
cheap iced out jewelry its visceral look is in the choice of stones used to mimic
quality diamonds. "Such practices are growing in imported jewelry from China and
India," says Ed Jones of Sokobe Jewelers.
To such factories, it would not make sense to pay the salary to have U.S. based
master diamond setters set cheap diamonds into silver or some other base metal. It
makes more sense to have this manufacturing done in Thailand, China or India where
this work can be done at a fraction of the cost. Also, this type of setting work
does not involve meticulous reworking of the stone seats and the manual bending of
each prong over a stone. More often glue is used to hold the stones in and prongs
are only a fixture on the jewelry piece. Painstaking labor cannot be used to fashion
a piece that will sell for a few hundred dollars.
The problem with these 'discount' or inexpensive items holding value over time is
that they are being sold at a large discount over quality items, however they are
actually being sold at a large markup from their true value. Over time a
quality diamond jewelry piece should hold its value, or appreciate with the
prevailing market. Cheap jewelry runs the risk of declining greatly in value over
time. Repairs are harder or impossible to make, especially with the practice of
gluing diamonds and other precious stones into place. Repairs using a torch can
unglue other stones, or cause the glue to burn, ruining the diamond piece. Cheaper
flawed diamonds can crack under the heat and pressure, destroying the item.
Purchasing from a reputable diamond retailer is the best way to determine the
quality of an item.
Even more important is the possible effects on health, cause by a growing market in
cheap jewelry. More and more cheap items are being found with lead in the metal.
Mark Jacobs, of Sokobe's Inventory and repair department says ,"We are seeing it
becoming more of a problem, for both customers, who have been fooled, and their
families who have been made ill." There is evidence of the recycling of lead battery
waste into highly leaded jewelry items. Inexpensive highly leaded jewelry, much of
it imported from China, still remains available in the United States. The source
materials for these items are unknown. Due to the low cost of much of this jewelry,
it seems likely that scrap materials may be used in their manufacture. Lead
poisoning can lead to many symptoms and signs which vary depending on the individual
and the duration of lead exposure. Abdominal pain, joint pain, muscle pain, anemia,
weakness, chest pain, and reproductive problems are just some of the problems that
can result from lead exposure. An unusual taste in the mouth, loss of appetite, and
personality changes are early signs. Lower levels of lead in the body can also
cause problems, like trouble paying attention, behavior problems, learning
difficulties. Children are especially susceptible to lead exposure and other base
metals. High levels of lead in the body can cause problems with the brain, kidneys
and bone marrow. Symptoms of high lead levels can include headaches, vomiting,
confusion, muscle weakness, seizures, hair loss and anemia. Lower levels of lead in
the body can also cause problems, like trouble paying attention, behavior problems,
and learning difficulties. "I'm very concerned about childrens' health, when
speaking about cheap imported jewelry," concluded Ed, sales manager at Sokobe.
"One solution is to check all jewelry you already have at home," he continued.
"Various manufacturers offer what is called a lead test kit". 'The Lead Inspector by
Abotex', sold online, is designed both for jewelry and other household items, like
tap water and soil. Try to check all objects at home including furniture, remove all
low-quality lead-containing jewelry and other objects from your home as there is no
other way to avoid the hazardous material.
Materials and workmanship are the two main contributors to jewelry costs. By using
materials such as sterling silver and cubic zirconia in lieu of precious metals and
stones, low priced 'discount' jewelry becomes not only possible but can look quite
'high end'. The use of inexpensive Asian labor and inexpensive fabrication, setting,
and finishing processes allow jewelers to sell jewelry at a bargain price. Cheap
allows for everyone to have the stylish look of without the sacrifice of thousands
of dollars; however the price may be paid in other ways in future, via a value or
with one's health.
"Sokobe," says Ed Jones, " avoids these problems by only using U.S. sources for
metals, and local craftsmen that they can oversee. It's the only way to make sure."
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